For weft-face weaves (fabrics in which the weft forms the outer surface of a fabric), warp yarn should be slightly finer or the same as the weft yarn. Great disparity between the sizes is not advisable as it makes an imbalance that weakens the fabric. For light-weight fabrics a fine two-ply is perfect. A warp larger than the weft will make a “rep” texture - vertical ribbed surface is seen.
In a modified weft-face weave where the warp will show slightly, a two-ply yarn of a colour that will enhance the weft is desirable. For balanced weave fabrics in which warp and weft are equally predominant an identical warp to that of weft is good. When possible, a plied yarn is used. For warp face weaves –fabrics in which the warp forms the outer surface of the fabric, a strong yarn is used. Since the warp threads have to be very close together, fuzzy or overly textured yarns should be absolutely avoided. The ideal warp is a soft but smooth and tightly spun two-ply or multi-ply yarn.
WEFT YARNS:
Weft yarns can be just anything as desired. They don’t take much wear during the process of weaving, but their durability in the final fabric is to be considered. For weft-face weaves a single-ply weft makes a smoother-textured fabric. A plied yarn is also often used for weft-face fabrics. Wefts of several different sizes and textures used together in the same weft-face fabric can be very interesting. For balanced weaves the weft should be identical to the warp. For warp -face weaves the most important single factor in choosing the weft yarn is its size, since it is not seen in the final fabric. The ideal weft in this case is usually identical to the warp. A weft larger than warp will make a “rep” texture – in this case a horizontal ribbed textures. Finer weft will make a smoother, more flexible fabric.
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