FUNDAMENTALS OF CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION 3(1+2)

Lesson 12 : Types of layout

Rules to remember in pattern layout

• Press the fabric before laying it out on the table.
• A large table is useful for comfortably laying out all the pattern pieces.
• For an open layout (where single thickness of fabric is used) place the fabric with the right side up.
• For all other layouts, fold the right sides facing each other so that the wrong side faces seamstress.
• If a combination fold is used, lay and cut the lengthwise pattern pieces first before refolding the cloth for crosswise layout.
• Since most garments are made with the lengthwise grain running vertically on the body, align the pattern pieces on the fabric accordingly, with the grainline of pattern parallel to the selvage.
• Pin all the pattern pieces to the fabric. Use only dressmaker’s pins as they do not damage the fabric. Pins should be perpendicular to the stitching lines and the cutting line.
• Place large pattern pieces first and then fit in the smaller ones.
• Lay the pieces as close to each other so that fabric is not wasted.
• Fit pattern pieces that are similar in shape next to each other. This process is called dovetailing.
• Always test out to see if all the pattern pieces fit into the fabric being used.
• Mark seam allowances on the fabric if the pattern indicates so.
• If pattern details are being transferred using a carbon paper, use a paper that is as close to the color of the fabric as possible.
• Mark pattern details only on the wrong side of the fabric.
• Keep the fold lines of patterns on the folded edge of the cloth.
• When using a lining material, mark only on the lining than on the actual fabric the garment is made.
• Try to fit the wide end of one piece to the narrower end of the other. Ex: petticoat layout.
• Arrange all pattern pieces before cutting the cloth.