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Fabrics can be folded in various ways to accommodate the pattern in an economical way. The choice of a layout is dependent on the following factors:
- Type of the dress design
- The size of the pattern
- The width of the fabric
- Nature of the fabric (checks, plaid, napped, one way design, striped etc)
Accordingly a suitable layout is to be selected from among the different types of layout:
Lengthwise Fold One of the easiest layouts to work with is the lengthwise fold. Here the fabric is folded in the same way it was folded when purchased. In other words, the selvages are matched together and folded, so the fold runs parallel to the selvedge. This type of layout is suitable for a child’s frock.
Off Center Lengthwise Fold This fold is useful when the pattern pieces are too wide for a lengthwise fold. To make this fold, spread open the fabric; refold on a line at right angles to the selvages in the direction of crosswise threads. To cut narrow patterns pieces on fold, this layout is very useful. A child’s panty can be laid out in off centre lengthwise fold.
Crosswise Center Fold This layout is suitable for cutting out the materials that are too narrow to be accommodated in width when folded lengthwise.
Off Center Crosswise Fold The cloth is folded along a crosswise yarn or weft yarn so that only a smaller amount of fabric is utilized. This layout is also suitable to cut pattern pieces that are too wide for a lengthwise fold. The only advantage over crosswise centre fold is that only a part of the fabric is used up.
Double Fold Used when many pattern pieces are to be cut on fold. In this type of fold, the two selvages meet at the centre of the fabric. Garments that have no openings either at front or back can be cut on this type of fold provided the fabric is wide enough to accommodate the pattern pieces. Fabrics with widths ranging from 50” to 60” or more are suitable for this type of layout.
Combination Fold This type of layout combines both lengthwise and crosswise fold. The fabric is first folded lengthwise and then crosswise to arrive at this type of fold. A saree petticoat or a four gored skirt can be cut using this type of layout.
Open Layout The fabric is laid out on a single thickness and then the patterns pieces are arranged suitably. This type of layout is especially suitable for asymmetrical dress designs. Ex: Wrap over top with ties at the right or left side.
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