Pattern Grading: It is the process of increasing or decreasing the dimension of each pattern piece according to a firm’s grade rule of proportional change or the target customer’s requirements. (figure 5)
The proportional difference in the measurement between sizes at a specific point of measurement is a grade rule.
In the grading process it is very important that the proper fit and style sense of the original design is retained, when the dimensions are being changed for different sizes.
Silhouette: The outline shape of a garment is referred to as its silhouette. There are four basic types of silhouettes from which the designer can evolve a particular fashion point of view: the fitted garment, the semi-fitted garment, the slightly loose fitted garment and loosely fitted garment.
Ease over body: ease is the difference between the garment measurement and the body measurement. There are primarily two types of ease, comfort ease and design/style ease.
Wearing or comfort ease: it is the ease which allows the body flexing and movement of the wearer’s body.
The amount of comfort ease depends upon the manufacturer’s fitting standards incorporated in the basic blocks. Type of the fabric and supposed use of the garment also affect the comfort ease. For example rigid fabrics require more comfort ease then stretchable fabrics. Other factors include required body movement, consumer preferences, fashion, garment design and style.
Too much comfort ease distorts the look and balance of the garment while too little ease restricts the movement of the body.
Design or style ease: it includes the structural features that are built into a style to provide the silhouette and appearance of designer’s specifications. Use of design ease depends on a designer’s interpretation of fashion for the firm’s target customers. Design ease should be such so that it should not affect the balance of the garment.
Design ease is more in puff sleeve when compared to basic sleeves but comfort ease may be same in both.
Ease in stitching: it is the gap between the stitch line and the outer edge of the fabric. This is given to secure the stitching or to avoid opening of stitches by slippage of yarns from fabric. Amount of fabric that is left for this ease vary according to the type of fabric and the designing requirements. Heavily fraying fabric like satin require more ease then twill denim fabric. Sometimes ease also effect the fit and appearance of the garment so care should be taken while deciding amount of ease.
Pattern Manipulation: The act of slashing and spreading or pivoting a pattern section to alter its original shape. The new pattern shape represents design features of the garment.
Pivotal point: A designated point on the pattern (for example, the bust point). The pattern is slashed to, or pivoted from, this point. This allows the pattern shape to be altered without changing its size or fit. (figure 6)
Test Fit: As each design project is completed, the design should be cut in a muslin/woven fabric (or fabric chosen for the design) and placed on a form or model for a test fit. One half of the garment is needed when fitting the form (unless it is an asymmetrical design, which requires a full garment). A full garment is required when fitting the model. Seam allowances can be added in one of two ways for a test fit:
The seamless pattern can be traced on cloth, adding seam allowance directly on the fabric.
Seam allowances can be added to the pattern before cutting in cloth.
The garment should be stitched using 6 to 10 stitches per inch. The seams are pressed (without steam), and the garment is placed on the form or model for test fitting.
Last modified: Thursday, 15 December 2011, 12:02 PM
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