APPAREL MANUFACTURING - I 3(1+2)

Lesson 3 : Basic Pattern Making Terms And Definitions-Ii

Fabric Terms

1. Grain: Grain of a fabric is direction in which the yarns are woven or knitted. The two grains of a fabric are length wise grain or warp and crosswise or weft.

2. Length wise grain: The yarns are parallel to selvedge of fabric and at right angles to the cross-wise grain or yarns. Length wise grain is the strongest grain. The drape of the fabric is very good when lengthwise grain is perpendicular to the floor. (figure 7)

3. Cross wise grain: Yarns woven across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge. The yarns that make cross wise grain are the filling yarn of a woven fabric. (figure 7)

4. Selvedge: It is the narrow, firmly woven edge finish strip of the fabric in the direction of length wise grain. Clipping selvedge releases the tension of fabric. (figure 7)

   
   

5. Bias: It is the slanting or diagonal line cut across the weave of the cloth. (figure 7)

6. True Bias: The angle line that intersects with the lengthwise and crosswise grain at a 45° angle. True bias has maximum give and stretch, easily conforming the figure’s contours. Flares, cools and drapes work best when cut as true bias. (figure 7)

7. Bowing and skewing: Fabric grains that are not at true right angles cause bowing and skewing or a combination of both. This is distortion in warp and filling alignment due to the stresses and strain imposed during weaving and finishing of the fabric. (figure 8)

   
   

8. Bowed fabric: In bowed fabric the filling yarns do not remain at right angles to the warp yarns, mainly in the center of the fabric between the selvedges.

9. Skewed fabric: In skewed fabric the filling yarns interlace at an angle other then 90 degrees. This generally gets progressively worse along one selvedge.

10. Problems caused by Bowing and skewing: Bow and skewness are the common defect in the fabric which causes big problems when excessive. These cause problems in matching designs mainly of stripes and checks and other geometric patterns. This also affects the drape-ability, dimensional stability and balance of the stitched garment.

11. Finding the grain lines: This process is done by pulling a thread of crosswise grain, then cutting along the pulled space, or by tearing the fabric along the grainline. The fabric then can be stretched until the grain lines are at right angles to each other.

12. Aligning grainline: To correct the grain of the fabric, pull the opposite ends of the fabric diagonally. Repeat the process for other ends. This process will help to realign the straight and cross grains and removes bow and skewness. This is done for fabrics of individual garments, but impractical for mass-produced designs.

13. Darts:Darts are wedge shape fold on garments for fitting and decorative purpose. Darts are principal means of moulding the fabric on to the figure. They dispose off and control the surplus fullness in the garment. (figure 9)
    
    

    
    

14. Pleats:Pleats are folds of fabric which may be sharply pressed or softly rolled with no pressing. They may be edge stitched along the fold for a definite silhouette or they may left to fall freely with no stitching. Knife and box are most commonly used types used to control fullness in a garment. (figure 10)
    
    

    
    

15. Notch:A small V shaped mark on seam of pattern piece to be used as guide for matching seams. (figure 11)
    
    

    
    

16. Gusset: a shaped piece of fabric inserted in the garment to provide extra room. Traditional gusset is a diamond or triangular shaped piece of fabric inserted between seams to make garment fit well and to provide extra room.

17. Fit: a well fitted garment feels comfortable, adjusts naturally to the activities of the wearer, having proper amount of ease and is consistent with fashion. A garment of good fit hangs or sets without wrinkles, sagging or poking out and it is well balanced.

18. Blend: A technique that helps to form a smooth, continuous line or smooth shapes of the pattern and muslin drape. It includes rounding of angular lines along a seam for smooth transition from one point to other point.

19. Trueing: The process of blending and straightening the markings, dots, and cross marks made during the draping, drafting and pattern making process for establishing correct seam lengths.

20. Dots: A pencil mark placed on a draped muslin or fabric to record the seam lines or style lines. Used as guide mark for trueing.

21. Clip: A small cut into the seam allowance used on curved seams to release strain and help the seam lie flat when turned.

22. Muslin: Muslin is a medium weight, plain weave unfinished cotton fabric. This fabric is used for making patterns for checking fitting when constructing garments. This is also used as the medium for draping. The fabric is relatively cheap and is affordable for experimentation. All markings can be made easily on this fabric with either pencil or pen.

23. A placket refers to an opening slit in a garment and to layers of fabric which may be used to conceal such a slit. (figure 12)
    

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    A placket is an opening in the upper part of a garment, trousers or skirts, or at the neck or sleeve of a garment. Plackets are made to allow clothing to be put on or removed easily, but sometimes used as a design element. Modern plackets often contain fabric facings or attached bands to surrounds and reinforce fasteners such as buttons, snaps, or zippers.