APPAREL MANUFACTURING - I 3(1+2)

Lesson 7 : Pattern Grading

Features Of Grading

1. Size ranges are often in 5 cm increments.
2. But some manufacturers require an extra size / range and allow 4 cm difference between consecutive sizes makes it possible.
3. It is wise to establish the required increments between sizes before starting to Grade.
4. To plan the amount of increase per pattern piece, remember that most patterns are cut on the half (for greater speed and accuracy).
5. Therefore from centre back to centre front on a 4cm grade, the half increment will be 2 cm.
6. This amount may be further divided between the half back and the half front pattern i.e., 1 cm on each quarter of the garment.
7. Patterns must grow length ways as well as widthways; therefore note that additional length sometimes means an increase in girth, as in the case of an armhole or neckline.

The method of grading illustrated here is to move the pattern pieces from point to point, allowing the size differences in between and marking the outlines as you proceed. Accuracy is essential or mistakes will magnify as grading proceeds.

The temptation to add the increment in one area e.g. the side seams must be resisted, since this will affect the balance of the garment and loss of time.

The cut and spread of the basic five piece block, illustrates the fragmental division of the grading amounts and the areas in which they are applied.