|
The ideal sewing thread should confirm to a high standard of single thread strength and perfectly balanced twist. It should not have yarn defects like knots, cuts, snarling, twist subs etc. Thread should have color fastness and wash fastness. Length of the sewing thread should be within the specification. It should be smooth, free from protruding fibres with exceptional good appearance.
Fibres For Sewing Threads
- Glass and Asbestos
These are so unsatisfactory and only used when essential to provide complete homogenous sewn product.
- Viscose Rayon
The low wet strength and poor abrasion resistance are main limitations as sewing thread.
- Polyethylene and Polypropylene
Low melting point, inherent stiffness with tendency to slip in the seam, Poor fatigue resistance, poor creep and light fastness are the major limitations.
- Linen and silk
Because of its low demand it has a limited usage.
- Cotton
It has good strength and low extension with resistance to shrinkage .It does not melt even at high sewing rate. Abrasion resistance also found appreciable. The negative aspects of the cotton could be due to its less durable nature, weaker then the synthetic fibre made yarns and poor mildew resistance.
- Polyester
Polyester has good tensile, light and heat fastness. The wet abrasion resistance and Fatigue behavior are better then Nylon. The limitation might be the melting high-speed sewing.
- Polyamides
The leather industry use Polyamides due to its different elastic properties and the heat setting properties .The limitations are due to 10-20% strength loss when exposed with the water and Kink formation after sudden retraction.
Classifications Of Sewing Threads
- Cotton Thread
It can withstand at a high temperature then the synthetic fibre yarns .it based on the end uses classified in to three types.
- Soft thread
Most commonly used soft threads need no special treatment. Low friction lubricant only required
- Polished Thread (Glaced)
Starch and lubricants are coated in the soft thread with high speed polishing performed by rotating brushes to give glazed appearance. Leather and heavy fabrics need such threads.
- Mercerized Thread
For general stitching, button holding and embroidery purposes the mercerized threads are used. Improved luster and strength add value to the sewn fabrics.
- Linen Thread
Before the synthetic threads invented this stiff thread from flax used in foot wear and tarpaulin. It is sensitive to bacterial action in wet condition. Hence it needed rot proof finish.
- Silk Thread
It is used in short length for pick stitching the edges of men’s jackets and is more expensive garments for stitching button holes. The main feature of this type threads are the extensibility with strength (about 20%). Cost is main restriction factor.
- Polyester Stable Fibre Thread
It is considered one of the best and most satisfactory performing sewing thread due to high strength at cyclic loading, good chemical and abrasion resistance properties with dye and light fastness properties with low cost. Comparative hairiness in the thread reduces thread friction and improves the Sewability.
- Nylon Thread
It is having good fibre strength to fineness ratio. Puckering may result due to unfavourable extension characteristics.
- Multi Filament Sewing Thread
Filaments often bonded with synthetic fibre copolymer that bonds the individual filaments and yarns together to give optimum sewing performance.
- Core-spun Sewing Threads
Extra ordinary strength and abrasion resistance of the polyester filament are provided strong and firm seams. Superior heat insulation of cotton cover makes seam totally a heat proof and excellent elastic recovery with no thread breakage at point of stress. Lubricant is retained well in the surface of the cotton to provide superior cooling to prevent thread burnout at the needle eye.
|
Participants