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Thread for constructing a garment should be strong, durable and stretchy. There are three basic cotton threads: soft (untreated), glace (polished) and mercerized. Synthetic threads are usually made from polyester or nylon; core spun thread is a mixture of cotton and synthetic fibre.
The best spun polyesters are suitable for any fabric. They do not fray, snap, shrink or rot, and have good stretchability. Polyester is strong, so the thread can be very fine; this means that it slips through the fabric easily and the stitches ‘bed down’ to create inconspicuous seams.
It is important to match needle and thread sizes. If the needle eye is too small, the thread will be damaged; if the needle eye is too large, the thread will not fill the needle punctures, leaving unsightly holes along the seam.
The chart below defines the most common thread types and gives recommendations for their use. Size numbers are given where they apply. The higher the number, the finer the thread; the median size is 50. Use thread one shade darker than the fabric; for a print or plaid, the dominant colour.
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Sl. No.
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Thread
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Fibres and usage
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1.
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General purpose
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Polyester: An all purpose weight (approx. size 50), suitable for hand and machine sewing on most fabrics, but particularly recommended for woven synthetics, also for knits and other stretch fabrics of any fibre. Most polyester threads have a wax or silicone finish to help them slip through fabric with a minimum of friction.
Cotton: A medium thickness (size 50) is available in a wide range of colours, including variegated shadings. Used for machine and hand sewing on light and medium weight cottons, rayons and linens. Cotton thread is usually mercerized, a finishing process that makes it smooth and lustrous, and also helps it to take dye better.
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2.
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Soft machine cotton
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Cotton: A loosely thread, sizes 40 and 50, used for tacking, loose twist makes it easy to break for quick removal from the garment. Available only in white and black. Has no seam.
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3.
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Heavy duty
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Polyester: very strong thread, size 30. Comes in a wide range of colours. Suitable for hand or machine sewing.
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4.
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Nylon
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A strong, monofilament thread made in two transparent shades to blend in with light ort dark coloured fabrics. Used for hand and machine sewing of hems. Nylon thread has good elasticity, but it is very difficult to tie the ends off satisfactorily.
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5.
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Button and carpet
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Polyester / cotton, linen: Tough, thick thread made from a polyester core wrapped in cotton, or from linen. Used for hand sewing jobs requiring super thread strength such as saddle stitching, repairing carpets. Usually has a glazed finish to enable it to slip easily through heavy fabric.
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6.
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Buttonhole twist
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Silk: used for top stitching and hand worked buttonholes, also for decorative hand sewing, including smocking, and for sewing on buttons. Size 40/3, available in wide range of colours.
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7.
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Elastic
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Nylon/cotton wrapped rubber: A thick, very stretchy thread used for shirting on sewing machine. Elastic thread is wound on bobbin only.
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8.
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Embroidery
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Stranded cotton: six mercerized cotton thread strands twisted loosely together, made for decorative hand work. Strands can be separated for fine work. Sold by the skein in a wide range of colours.
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Soft cotton: Not mercerized; suitable for bold hand embroidery and tapestry work. Sold by the skein.
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Mercerized cotton: Special thread suitable for machine embroidery. Has different sizing: size 30 is medium fine and size 60 is very fine (suitable for pin tucking)
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9.
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Metallic
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Metallised synthetic: Shiny silver or gold coloured thread, used for decorative stitching by hand or machine.
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