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This study researches the possibility for common track and trace systems to document implemented ecological standards for the purpose of the garment manufacturer. If the suppliers are certified in one ecological or social standard they could integrate the certification number as shown in Figure 2 in any way in the product code of the own products and separate them respectively from the production which is not under the standard (in case for orders for local market or big orders for basic semi-goods for sub-contractors).
In scope of a study of the implementation of eco-labelling schemes for Bulgarian garment manufacturers it was found out that there are different stages on trace and track for goods, processes and substances through the textile supply chain. The garment manufacturer can use the systems of the customers and their codes as shown on Figure 3 integrating them in the own system if available too. This nomenclature can be used through the whole lifecycle of the garment and even for the purposes of recycling and reuse.
Other area for implementation could be the requirement under Article 33 of the the REACH European Regulation for Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation of Chemicals 1907/2006. Each producer or distributor of articles in the European Community must be able to reply to customer requests about a content above 0,1% weight by weight in the article of any substance of very high concern (SVHC) published on a Candidate List of the Chemical Agency by Reach. At the moment there are 15 substances on this list mainly applicable for textile. It is possible to adopt this requirement in the nomenclature in a way which will assure the liable and quick response in case of information demand to Reach [10].
The calculation of the “Carbon footprint” of products as shown on Figure 4 for labelling of articles based on their impact on CO2 equivalent in gram for production, Lifecycle and transportation can be integrated in the track and trace system too. Based on this footprint, the customer will be able to compare similar goods labelled after company assessment of the own green gas emissions in accordant to the methodology PAS 2050 [11] or ISO 14040 ff or others. Hence, the garment manufacturer as a part of the supply chain of the article will be involved in this calculation and will have to trace back all included processes and parts of the own products.
Assuming the advantages of the Track and Trace solutions for the companies for “Real-time gathering and transparent information sharing with different members of supply chain”[7] it must be pointed out that the backtracking of fulfilled standards for the products of the garment manufacturer is designed only as a fragment of already existing system by each company. It depends on its size and the infrastructure if it will be possible to adopt the additional tracing of standards or requirements to the existing logistic tools. But if the company implements the tracing back system; This company will have own precise management of evidence of conformity of the products to the respective standard at the own disposal.
On the other side, the involved companies should have to develop an organisational structure, to take additional costs and to appoint work force for the implementation and continuously realisation of the tracing of the standards. Based on the technical stage of the common systems for documentation and inventory of good flows the possibility was detected to add to each different system respective items for documenting of certifications in ecological, social, quality or other standards. The most positive effect will be achieved if there is co-operation between manufacturers in the different stages of the textile supply chain, customers which order and distribute the goods, e-commerce and logistic companies from the textile sector, producers of software and machine equipment.
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Participants