Fundamentals of Textile Design 3(2+1)

Lesson 3:Weaving

Development of Loom:

1. Warp Weighted Loom

   It was thought that these were the first loom types used. The loom was vertically held, with warp kept under tension with weights made of clay and stone. Weft yarn was inserted up against gravity by the hand of the weaver. Weaving on this loom was a slow process and the woven fabric had three selvages. A distinct advantage of this loom is that greater width of the fabric could be woven with this loom. Both the hands of the weaver were used for interlacement of warp and weft.

2. Horizontal Ground Loom

   This loom which was raised on four grounded pegs had association with linen weaving by Egyptians. The fabric size would determine the size of the loom. The warp was stretched between two beams placed on the pegs. The weaver needs to bend over the accomplished fabric to continue further and thus it was uncomfortable for him while weaving.

3. Pit Loom

   Pit loom has its base from the horizontal loom and bears a good development in terms of ease to the weaver during the weaving process. He can comfortably sit on the edge of the pit and weave the fabric with his legs dangling in the pit giving him utmost comfort. Shed was created by raising and lowering of treadles with legs while interlacement of weft with the hands made an easy job for the weaver.

4. Raised Horizontal Loom

   Also called frame loom, treadle loom. This was a portable loom type with a portable tool for the weaver to sit and work.



5. Back Strap Loom

   This is a simple loom with one end attached to a pole or a tree and the other end attached to the back of the weaver, hence the name. Tension on warp is created by the distance the weaver sits from the pole to which the loom is fixed. The fabric width is small and is equal to the distance the weaver could use his both hands. However, fabrics with four selvages could be made on them. This loom is still used in the north-eastern states of India.

6. Draw Loom

   Damasks dating 2nd century BC from China shows patterned weave done on a loom- the Drawloom. Regular sheds were done by the weaver, while sheds for creating patterns were controlled by a person sitting on the top of the loom called the “drawboy”. Warps to be raised for creation of pattern shed were tied to a cord and sent through a comber board to be pulled by the ‘drawboy’ as per the design requirement.
   
   

   
   
7. Jacquard Loom

   This is a direct descendant from the drawloom which replaced the ‘drawboy’ with endless chains of perforated rectangular cards in place of comber board. Arrangement was made to lift the warps for pattern shed automatically by the use of these cards. Joseph Marie Jacquard perfected the invention.

8. The Dobby Loom

   The history of this loom is little known. The harnesses were controlled by activating levers by wooden pegs on a revolving wooden device. Small patterns could be made on this loom. Some of these loom types were set to be the precedents of jacquard loom.

9. Computerised Loom

   Unlimited designs, versatility in yarns usage, bigger repeats are all possible with this loom, with minimum involvement of the weavers. Fabrics are woven in greater lengths, widths and with greater output. It is possible to produce high quality woven fabrics by using computerized looms.