Quality Characteristics of Wool
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The important quality characteristics of wool are colour, fibre length, fibre diameter and clean dry yield.
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The colour of wool is important because presence of any pigment markedly decreases the possibilities of dyeing.
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The ideal colour is white or creamy white with conspicuous lusture.
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It is caused by bacterial action at high pH and low grease content.
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Fine wool has a fibre diameter of 17-18mµ (micron) whereas in coarse wool it may be nearly twice (35 – 38mµ)/ Wools less than 30mµ fibre diameter (non-medullated) are only suitable for clothing textiles.
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The coarse wools are generally used for carpet manufacture.
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To determine the proportion of fibres of each type, a representative sample containing atleast 200 fibres of a fleece are taken and sorting is done against a black background such as black velvet.
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All fibres showing chalkiness to the naked eyes are counted as hairs, unless those are kemps.
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Within the laboratory, medullation can be assessed by immersion of wool sample in xylol and examination under high magnification.
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Fibre length is an important parameter from spinning point of view.
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In temperature climate, it is the growth of staple during 12 months of age.
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Fine wool is generally less than 6cm comes in coarse grades.
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Clean dry yield refers to the yield of pure wool removing natural grease, vegetable material (grass seeds, burr etc) and soil.
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These impurities can range even upto 20 per cent.
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Further, strength of the fibre is also an important property.
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It is affected by low plane of nutrition and chronic infection especially helminthiasis.
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In field conditions, holding the ends of the staple between the fingers and giving a sharp tug measure it.
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In fine wool crimp, which refers to the waviness of wool fibre, is also considered as an important characteristic.
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It is measured in number of crimps per unit length.
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As far as elasticity is concerned, a fine wool fibre can stretch as much as 70% beyond its original length before breaking.
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Some defects generally encountered in wool are hairiness, impurities, skirting, lack of uniformity and cotts (pressing together of coarse fibres).
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Last modified: Friday, 17 September 2010, 6:31 AM