Fundamentals of Clothing Construction

FUNDAMENTALS OF CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION 3(1+2)

Lesson 11 : Fasteners and Hems

General considerations

Hemline choices depend on

1. The style & type of the garment: Depending on the type and style of the garment, an appropriate hem should be chosen. Ex: A child's garment requires a sturdy machine sewn hem. Machine sewn hems are ideal for tucked in shirts, T-shirts, and sleepwear. Hand sewn blind hems are ideal for skirts and pants.
2. The type of the fabric: The fabric weight determines the choice of a hem. Garments made from light weight fabrics look good with wider hems and those made in heavy weight fabrics look better in narrow hems. Ex: A delicate silk scarf needs an equally delicate invisible rolled hem.
3. The location of hem in the garment: Different areas in the garment require different hem depths. Ex: Sleeve hem depth is generally not more than ½ to 1”. The more curved the shape, the narrower the hem is. Ex: Bias gowns or circular skirts, the hem should be narrower to reduce the bulk
4. Figure of the wearer: The width of the hem used should be proportionate to the figure type of the wearer. Ex: Hems for taller figures could be slightly wider. Similarly hems for shorter figures should be narrower.
5. The wear and tear a garment will be subjected to: The wear and tear a hem is subjected to direct the choice of a hem. Ex: Hems of denim pants are generally machine stitched for denims are subjected to maximum wear and tear. Hems in a blouse are generally done with hand stitches as they are to be inconspicuous and the garment as such is not exposed to a lot of stress or strain.

The hem finish selected should not change the appearance of the garment unless the hem is intended to be decorative. The finish should not add weight or bulk which might cause an imprint onto the right side of the garment. Also, the hem finish should prevent raveling and maintain the same stretchability as the garment.