FUNDAMENTALS OF CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION 3(1+2)

Lesson 6 : Preparation of fabric for cutting

Methods of straightening woven fabrics

1. Pull The Thread From Selvedge To Selvedge
   This method is appropriate for loosely woven fabrics.


1. In woven fabric one filling yarn is carefully pulled until the fabric puckers.
2. Cut along the puckered line to the pulled yarn.
3. Repeat the pulling and cutting process until the opposite selvedge is reached. (Figure 6.2)



The cut edge will be on grain and can be used in cutting patterns.

2. Cutting Along A Prominent Filling Yarn /Print Line
   When a filling yarn is readily visible the fabric may simply be cut from selvedge to selvedge.


1. This method can be used for a striped or plaid fabric with lines that run along the crosswise grain. The stripe or plaid must be woven into the fabric.
2. Cut along one of these lines from one selvedge to the other, close to the cut edge of the fabric.


3. Tearing
   This method is appropriate for tightly woven fabrics. Loosely woven fabrics may stretch out of shape with this method.


• Clip into the selvedge near to the cut edge of the fabric.
• Tear the fabric all the way down to the opposite selvedge. (Figure 6.3)
  
  




Sometimes the fabric may have warp and weft yarns perpendicular to each other but during finishing process, they would have been disturbed. In such cases the following can be done:

4. Stretching method: The simplest method of making a fabric grain perfect is by stretching it. Open up the fabric, keep it near the corner of a table and pull it on the true bias. After pulling for some time, fold the fabric and check for grain perfectness. This process may have to be repeated several times.

5. Steam press method: If the above mentioned method does not work, clip the selvedges at intervals, sprinkle water on the fabric and press with a hot iron in the appropriate direction till the fabric become grain perfect.

6. Immersion method: This is the most effective method for straightening washable fabrics. The fabric is folded lengthwise and the selvedges are tacked together. It is then immersed in water until completely wet, and excess water is squeezed out. The fabric is hung up, till it is half dry. The half dry fabric is placed near the corner of a table and stretching process is carried out to make it grain perfect. After straightening, it is kept on a flat surface and dried. When dry, press with an iron, remove the tacking stitches along the edges.

Note: If a printed fabric is off-grain the fabric grain can be straightened but not the print. Hence it is necessary to carefully inspect print of the fabric before purchasing. It is better to avoid any printed fabric that is badly off-grain.