Lesson 7 : Construction Process


Drafting is defined as a method of drawing patterns on paper with mechanical precision using body measurements. A basic pattern or a ‘block’ or a ‘master’ or a ‘foundation pattern’ can be generated through drafting. A ‘sloper’ or ‘block’ is a custom-fitted basic pattern from which patterns for many different styles can be created. It consists of five basic pattern pieces or set – bodice front, bodice back, skirt front, skirt back and the sleeve. This basic block does not contain seam allowances, hem allowances. Design features are frequently added to a copy of this block to create variety in a design.

Since drafting employs the use of actual measurements of an individual, they need to be accurately recorded. Inaccuracy in measurements will lead to a faulty drafting resulting in an ill fitted garment. Also, some measurements are calculated on the basis of other measurements. E.g. Normally neck is taken as 1/12 of round bust. So measurements play an important role for drafting.

Considerations While Taking Body Measurements

  1. Round measurements should not be taken tightly or too slackly.
  2. Outer garments such as a coat or a cardigan are to be removed while taking measurements.
  3. Using a good quality and standard measuring tape is essential.
  4. The posture of a person should be erect while taking measurements.

After taking the correct measurements, drafting has to be done with mathematic precision. This draft can be made on a paper or on the wrong side of the fabric. For beginners it is always better to prepare the draft on a paper to avoid the risk of spoiling the cloth.

Tools Required To Make A Paper Draft Are:

  1. Measuring tape.
  2. Brown sheet.
  3. Sharpened pencil.
  4. French curve.
  5. Ruler

General Considerations For Drafting

  1. Drafting should be done on a flat surface.
  2. Drafting should be done on the wrong side of the material with the help of a tailor’s chalk.
  3. Use smoother paper or fabric for drafting.
  4. Calculate the size of the paper accurately according to the requirements of the drafting/garment.
  5. Always keep the fold of paper on left hand side if drafting is to be done on folded paper.
  6. Well sharpened pencil should be used for accuracy of lines.
  7. Use tailor’s square to draw right angles.
  8. Distinguish back and front with different types of lines.
  9. Draw lines neatly and make smooth curves using French curve.

Merits Of Drafting:

  • A good drafting gives a good fit.
  • A basic block can be graded to any desired size pattern.
  • Different designs can be made with just a basic draft.
  • Accuracy in cutting can be achieved when a draft is available.
  • The wastage of fabric can be avoided as all pieces of draft can be laid on the material and adjusted before cutting.
  • A draft can be stored and used many times which saves time.
  • In case of any figure irregularities, alterations can be made on a copy of the paper draft before finally cutting the fabric. Ex: broad shoulder, drooping shoulder etc.

Demerits Of Drafting:

  1. A basic draft has no seam allowance but only ease. Hence seam allowances are to be marked on the fabric.
  2. Does not fit all, as the sloper is made according to individual body measurements
Last modified: Wednesday, 16 November 2011, 6:45 AM