Apparel Designing and Construction

Apparel Designing and Construction 3(1+2)

Lesson 7 : Elements of Design- Texture

Determinants of texture

The texture of the apparel is offered by the fabric which is composed the different components namely fibre, yarn and finishes. So the characteristics of these components determine the final texture of the fabric. The factors that determine texture are as follows:

• Fibre content: It is basic unit of the fabric; is used directly or indirectly in making fabric depending on the techniques of fabric construction. The characteristics of the fibres that affect texture include the following:
  • Length
  • Shape
  • Chemical composition
  • Performance characteristics (strength, absorbency resistance to different components)

Few examples of fibres characteristics and resultant textures are as follows:

• Fibre (staple) - dull, fuzzy and warm in touch
• Fibre (filament) - shiny, smoother and cool in touch

The performance characteristics of fibres affect functional qualities like perspiration removal, comfort in cold and warm weather, etc.

• Yarn content: Yarn is made up of fibres. Different methods are there to manufacture yarns. So the quality of yarns depends upon the characteristics of constituent fibres and manufacturing method adopted. The factors that affect yarn characteristics include the following:
  • Fibre characteristics
  • Processes used in different manufacturing methods
  • Quantity and type of twist
  • Count of yarn
  • Number of ply
  • Type of yarn
  • Finishing process

  Few of yarn characteristics and resultant textures are as follows:

• Fibre type(staple/ filament) - dull/shiny, fuzzy/smoother and warm/cool in touch
• Carding/ combing - fluffy/ thin (eg. Woolen and worsted yarns)
• High or low count - fine/ thick
• Amount of twist - smooth/ rough, soft/ harsh and fine/ thick
• More or less number of ply - thick/thin
• Simple or novelty - smooth/ irregular (loop, knot, bulge, etc.)
• Texturing (finish) - textured, elasticized and high bulk

Besides surface texture, the yarn characteristics also affect the functional and performance of the fabric.

• Fabric structure: There are different methods by which the fabric is made; each method varies in the type of raw material required, type of technology used and finishing technology. The different methods of fabric construction are as follows:
  • Weaving
  • Knitting
  • Braiding
  • Knotting
  • Lace making
  • Felting
  • Non woven

Each method and its varieties either interlace or interloop or interlock the raw materials in different manner resulting in varied surface structures. The characteristics of fabrics manufactured by different methods are as follows:

• Woven fabrics (Fig 7.2) have strong, stable and different surface structures
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Knitted fabrics (Fig. 7.3)possess greater flexibility, wrinkle resistance, stretchiness and qualities which permit garments to follow the body contours.
  
  
  
  
• Non woven fabrics (Fig. 7.4) have less strength and rough surface
  
  
  
  
  
• Lace, net, crochet (Fig. 7.5) - are also less strong but provide delicate impression to the part of garment where applied.
  
  
  
  

Besides this, the direction in which a fabric is used also affects its appearance and function; it is due to position of fabric grain. A fabric will have good drape (Fig. 7.6 a) and better strength when on grain but lacks flexibility and vice versa in case if fabric is biased and cross grain (Fig. 7.6 b). Thus fabric grain affects the shape and draping effects a lot in apparels

Now days when technical applications are increasing in different sectors, numerous new techniques are emerging that produce the fabrics with different structures although they serve less for apparels due to their thick and firm texture. For example, bonded or laminated fabrics.

• Finishes: The manufactured fabrics are usually finished with different processes to improve their appearance (embossing, bleaching, flocking, dyeing, etc). as well as performance (permanent press, anti static, absorbency, resistance to wrinkles, shrinkage, moth, mildew, flame retardency, etc.) and thus make them suitable for numerous end uses. These finishing processes make use of heat, pressure and chemicals to produce varied effects on the fabric surface.