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There are two different approaches to the drafting of patterns by measurement; direct and divisional system.
Direct system
In the direct system, measurements are taken on the figure directly. This is the most commonly used system for garment construction.
The Direct measurement system has some drawbacks like taking of direct measurements is considered difficult and unreliable, and the construction of a basic pattern on such data is thought to be unscientific.
It is impossible, for instance, to establish exact points or levels on the figure from which one could measure with accuracy expected in drafting. The figure may vary slightly from day to day, and the physical state, even the mood of the person, may affect some measurement (e.g. a tired person usually tends to stoop more, and so will have a wider back). A different foundation garment may change some measurements, and personal preferences may have to be taken into account (preference for tighter- or loose- fitting clothes, for instance).
Apart all these difficulties, direct measurements must be used because there is no satisfactory substitute for them in dressmaking. The only thing one can recommend is to take and use measurements intelligently, according to a definite plan.
Divisional or proportionate system
The Divisional system depends on various measurements and proportions obtained by calculation from one or two basic measurements (mostly from the bust, sometimes by height).
The Divisional system is used mainly in tailoring where shapes of garments are less standardized, fashion changes more frequently, fashion details are more varied and subtle, and fabrics cover a much bigger range.
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