The size of sewing thread is designated by a number known as its yarn count, grist or size. The sizing system used is mainly based on a fixed weight or length. Three of the most universally used systems are:
Fixed weight: These systems show the length or number of length units which make up a given weight of yarn. E.g. cotton count indicates how many hanks 840 yards long weight one pound, starting at count 1 cotton thread where one hank weighs one pound.
Fixed length: This method of sizing is called the tex or decitex system. The count number is equivalent to the weight in grams of 10,000 meters. E.g. if a yarn has a decitex count of 180 this means that 10,000 meters of this yarn weighs 180 grams & if two of these yarns are twisted into one thread the count number would be 360.
Ticket number: This widely used system is based on the cotton and metric count systems where the ticket numbers are approximately equal to three times the original count. In both the cotton and metric system, the count number is inversely proportional to size or weight per unit length of the thread . So a ticket number 20 thread is twice as coarse as a ticket number 40 thread.
Some general sewing guidelines :
Tex 30 - Non load bearing seaming / serging on lightweight fabrics
Tex 35 - General seaming on lightweight fabrics
Tex 40 - Load bearing seams on lightweight fabrics
Tex 60 - Decorative stitching on lightweight fabrics
- General seaming on heavyweight fabrics
Tex 100 - Load bearing seams on heavyweight fabrics
Tex 120 - Topstitching and decorative stitching on heavyweight fabrics
Tex 210 - Buttonhole gimp
Last modified: Wednesday, 28 December 2011, 12:07 PM
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