Oceanography

Waves-Introduction

1.1.7. Waves-Introduction

Waves are the most conspicuous feature of the ocean. Waves sheer size and vigour have always impresses wave watchers. The scientific study of the waves began in the early 19^th centuary. Franz Gerstner was the first who proposed to explain the phenomenon of waves. According to Franz Gerstner water particles in a wave move in circular orbits. In 20^th century oceanographers such as Harold U. Sverdrup and Walter munk of Scripps Institution of oceanography undertook a detailed study to predict wave and surf movements for naval operations.

The knowledge of wave is necessary for fishing off shore petroleum explorations, marine mining, marine engineering, and development of coastal areas.

Learning objectives

The present unit on ocean waves helps us to understand

1. What is wave

2. Types of wave

3. Theories of wave formation

4. Generation of different types of waves

5. Breaking and spilling waves

6. Tsunamis and its effects

7. Internal waves

Forces acting on seawater

According to George Karlenskit waves occur due to forces acting on the water surface. The energy that brings the wave is either dissipated at sea or strikes the beach. The waves result from distant geological effects and may travel thousands of miles before striking land. For instance the majority of the waves seen on ocean beaches result from distant winds and may range from small ripples to huge tsunamis.