Oceanography

Wave Parameters

All waves posses various features that can be measured. These include wave length,  Waveheight, amplititude, Waveperiod and Wavefrequency. From these variables,wave stability and speed may be calculated.

Wave crest is the highest point on a wave and wave trough is the lowest point on a wave. Wave length (L or l ) is the length of one complete wave form, as measured from wave crest to adjacent wave crest( trough to trough). Wave height(H) is the vertical distance from wave crest to wave trough. WaveAmplitude(A) is the vertical distance of the crest or trough from the flat, undisturbed water level. It is equal to one-half the wave height (A=1/2 H).

 Wave period(T) is the amount of time required for one wave length to pass a fixed point. Wave frequency (F) is the number of waves passing a fixed point in a unit  time and it  is equal to one divided by the period (F= 1/T). Celerity (C) is the velocity with which a wave form travels. Celerity can be measured directly or calculated by dividing the wave length by wave period (C= l /T). Wave stability or steepness is the ratio of wave height to wave length (stability= H/λ). A wave becomes unstable and collapses or breaks when H/λ >1/7.