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It is always so constructed that it follows the natural curve of the arm and provides for the bending of the arm at the elbow. As this involves fitting the sleeve to a curve, the shaped sleeve has some ‘dart fullness’ which controls its shape and fit. This type of sleeve, therefore, must have a dart or equivalent fullness somewhere, and this ‘dart fullness’ can be moved from one position to another.
All Shaped sleeves are adapted from the Straight sleeve block, which therefore, is the primary sleeve block.
Shaped sleeves are further classified as: sleeves with armscye and sleeves without armscye
Sleeves with Armscye
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Puff sleeves: Puff sleeves have added fullness in some parts (hem, cap or both) of the sleeve. They are designed with gathers by taking extra amount of fabric. The puff sleeve can be of any length, and fullness. The dartless half pattern is the base for developing the puff sleeve designs. The short puffed sleeve has a youthful character in appearance so it is the choice for children and young girls.
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Bell sleeve: The bell sleeve derives its name from the silhouette which is produced. A bell sleeve has a smooth cap and a hemline flaring out in the shape of a bell. The bell sleeve may be developed to any length and flare as desired.
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Petal sleeve: Petal sleeve is a term used to describe a shaped sleeve that resembles a petal as the sleeve sections cross over each other at the cap. The sleeves are developed in a number of ways and at varying lengths. The full dartless sleeve block is used to develop the petal sleeve.
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Lantern sleeve: it is a two section sleeve that flares out from the cap and hemline to a styleline within the sleeve. The sleeve can be of varying length.
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Bishop sleeve: a long sleeve, fuller at the bottom than the top, and gathered into a cuff.
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Cap sleeve: a very short sleeve covering only the shoulder, not extending below armpit level.
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Leg of mutton sleeve: a sleeve that is extremely wide over the upper arm and narrow from the elbow to the wrist .
Sleeve – Bodice Combinations or sleeves without armscye
The sleeve and top of any garment (blouse, dress, jacket, or coat) can be combined in a variety of ways. The foundation patterns of these sleeves can be used to develop many designs by exaggerating their special characteristics or by changing the styleline position. These sleeve-bodice combinations are categorized as follows:
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Kimono designs: The sleeve is all in one with the top garment. Kimono is developed by combining the sleeve length with the bodice or top.
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Raglan designs: The sleeve combines with part or an armhole and shoulder area of the garment. The raglan can be designed for bodice, dress, blouse, jacket, coat, or other garments. The armhole is generally lowered at varying depths to create a more casual fit.
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Drop shoulder designs: Part of the sleeve cap combines with the garment. The garment can be developed with or without the lower sleeve.
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Deep-cut armhole: The armhole section of a top combines with sleeve.
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Dolman sleeve: Dolman was formerly a sleeve developed for a deep armhole. The dolman has lowered underseams with exaggerated folds under the arms, providing for a high arm lift. It is developed from the basic.
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