Non-convertible collars

APPAREL MANUFACTURING - I 3(1+2)
Lesson 9 : Collars

Non-convertible collars

Collars that stay in the same location whether the garment is buttoned or unbuttoned.
Ex: 1. Peter Pan collar
2. Mandarin collar
3. Roll and
4. Sailor collar
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  1. Peter Pan collar
  2. A peter pan is a rounded, non-convertible collar developed in one or two pieces (open at front and back). It has a centre back stand ranging from a 1 inch stand to a ½ inch stand, to a flat roll. The peter pan or any non convertible collar is meant to be worn closed at the neckline and will not spring open when released.

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  3. Mandarin collar
  4. A mandarin collar (also called military, Nehru and Chinese collar) is a close fitting stand up collar. It parts in front and varies in width from 1¼ to 1½ inches on the average. This foundation is the base for the development of other collars, stands and, combination collar and stand variations. The collar may meet at centre front be overlapped and buttoned or be extended to any point along the neckline. The stand can be developed either close to or away from the neck. It can be curved, blunted, pointed or extended for a partial folded over collar effect. The neckline edge of the draft is the basis for all such collars.

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    A mandarin collar is a short unfolded stand-up collar style on a shirt or jacket. Mandarin collars start at the neckline and typically rise vertically two to five centimeters. The length along a mandarin collar is straight, with either straight or rounded edges at top of the centre front. The edges of the collar either barely meet at the centre front or overlap slightly. Overlapping mandarin collars are often a continuation of a shirt's placket and have a button on the collar to secure the two sides of the shirt together.

    A nearly identical style known as the Nehru collar is also found in some modern Indian men's clothing, such as the Nehru jacket. (Named for Jawaharlal Nehru, Prime Minister of India 1947–1964, who commonly wore clothing with this type of collar.)

    A band collar is often a mandarin collar. This term is also used for shirts that have only a flat finishing around the neckline; originally such garments were designed for use with a detachable collar, a largely-forgotten usage.

  5. Roll collar
  6. Bias fold collar bands can be developed for any neckline (basic or cut-out). The finished length should be slightly shorter than the area covered to compensate for the stretch of the bias fabric. The collar width may be planned for either a folded bias band or a band folded back on itself. Cut the band equal to front and back neck measurement. Stretch collar band slightly when stitching to the neck of the garment. This type of collars is suitable for men and women toppers sweaters and even for winter wears.

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  7. Sailor Collar
  8. The sailor collar inspired by the sailor’s uniform is developed low in the neckline and follows back neckline with collar edge long and wide. This type of collar is widely used in ladies and children garments with soft and pliable fabric.

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    From a pattern designer's point of view, collars may be classified into three major classifications, namely: Attached Collars, Convertible Collars and Tailored Suit Collars. These classifications refer to principle of cut rather than functional use of collar itself. Some collars are cut by one method, others by a combination of two methods.

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Last modified: Saturday, 17 December 2011, 5:25 AM