APPAREL MANUFACTURING - I 3(1+2)

Lesson 9 : Collars

Attached Collars

Flat Collar

This name is given to any collar which appears to lie flat around the base of the neck with no visible appearance of any roll. It may be cut directly from the collar sloper or the shaped neckline of any garment for which the pattern has been designed and collar is to become a part of.

Plastron Type Collar The plastron collar is merely a flat collar which has been finished without the neck band to attach it to garment. The neckline is built up 1/8 inch, plus the normal 1/8 inch seam allowance to insure a close fit so neckline of garment will not creep up above neckline of collar. Some designers attach tabs at the center front and each side of back closing so the collar may be temporarily attached with small safety pins. The illustration shows a plastron collar with a round neck designed to conceal a square neck on garment. Observe how the buttonholes on the collar have been placed in line with buttons on the dress to facilitate buttoning the collar down firmly in front.

Bertha Collar The true Bertha collar extends from the neckline to a point just beyond the normal armscye. The neckline is reduced in size to form the tiny roll and collar is completed in manner desired. If used on a garment having a puffed sleeve, it would be slashed and spread slightly at normal shoulder seam position to insure the neckline fit.

Rippled Collar

The rippled collar, cut on a circular flare principle is youthful and pleasing. In this design, the collar has the seams at normal shoulder position and center front in order to have each half the front spread into a complete circle. Necessity for seams depends on the degree of fullness. If collar closes at center front, no center back seam is needed. Circular ruffles may be introduced to plain round collars, or small godets set into the style line at intervals.

Elizabethan Collars

It has been told that proud Queen Elizabeth sponsored this fashion for collars that conceal the back of the neck because she had a blemish and wished to conceal it. It became conventional attire during her reign. It being impractical to wear under wraps, it is generally used for hostess and bridal gowns. In more conservative proportions, it is seen on waitress and beauty operator uniforms. This demonstrates method for using a style neckline as basis for designing collar. The slashes are started 1 ½ inches from center back. Spread sections ¼ inch each for a collar 4 inches wide.

Half Roll Collar This style of collar is extremely popular in the dress industry. It has a stand at the back which gradually lessens until the collar lies flat at the front base of the throat. It is adaptable to various shapes of necklines.
Half Roll Sailor Collar Although many sailor collars are cut to lie flat, if a little stand is provided in the back, it will provide room for the bulk of the scarf and it will also be a little more becoming, especially to adult figures. The method used for this collar is the V neckline is established first and then the remainder of the pattern is drafted.
Half Roll Shawl Collar Like the sailor collar, the shawl (sometimes called "fichu") collar may be cut flat or in a varying degree of roll as desired. In a simple style, it is used for mature women's clothing because it gives the feeling of dignity to the wearer and when it has been styled interestingly or given a new line through changing the style line, it may assume a more youthful feeling.
Full Roll Collar This collar is sometimes called the "Peter-Pan," it takes its professional name from the appearance when being worn. The finished collar should have a stand which is equal around the base of the neck. Because of the roll, it is especially pleasing for the woman who has an exceptionally thin, long neck as its round shape softens her angular features. It is youthful, so is not suited to elderly or mature women and should be definitely avoided by the woman having a round face and short, broad neck. When cut on the bias, the roll is less apparent and it appears cut that way in the majority of designs.
Mannish Shirt Collar The lesser the curve in the collar, the more the stand it will have when worn. The man's collar, being made of a straight strip of shaped fabric produces the extremity of stand all around the neck. It appears in riding shirts and other mannish apparel for women. Men's shirts show a wide variety of proportions and styles to suit the varying facial proportions of men.