APPAREL MANUFACTURING - I 3(1+2)

Lesson 11 : Pockets

Applied pockets/ Outside Pockets

As the name indicates, applied pockets are sewn onto the garment usually with top stitching. Mainly patch pockets are attached to the outside/on the surface of the garment. Patch pocket consists of variously shaped fabric sections applied to the right side of the garment. They can be lined or unlined, and may be attached either by machine or by hand. They can be square, rectangular, pointed or curved and may be decorated with top stitching, lace or braid trims, or tucks. They are used to create design interest on all sorts of garments like skirts, blouses, shirts, jackets and children garments. The size and placement of the pocket is determined primarily by convenience. This type of pockets is suitable for light weight and medium weight fabrics and are designed in a number of sizes and shapes with or without a flap.

If a plaid, a stripe or a print is to be matched, the pocket must be cut on the opposite grain from the garment or on the bias for added contrast.

Unlined patch pockets are most often used on casual clothes such as jeans, shirts and aprons.

Patch-Pocket Variations

There are several additional styles of patch pockets. Such pockets may be made in different shapes, as well as with different styles of straps, flaps, and other trimmings. However, as is true of the other pockets, patch pockets must always harmonize with the garment on which they are used.

Square pocket	Rounded pocket	Pocket with strap and flap	Box-Plaited Patch Pocket

Procedure for designing pocket:

1. Cut the pocket according to the shape
2. Mark the exact location for the pocket on the garment.
3. Mark the grain on the pocket pattern to coincide with that of the garment area to be covered.
4. If the fabric is patterned, match the designs.
5. Cut the pocket with 1 to 1.5cm seam allowance on the sides and lower edge and a 2.5 cm hem allowance at the top.
6. Trace seam lines and the hemline.
7. Crease the seam allowance properly and place the pocket on the garment with the help of pins.
8. Attach the pocket to the garment by top stitching.