The pocket is set into the garment through a narrow slash and hangs inside. Therefore there is little chance of correcting stitching errors. Précised marking, stitching, cutting and pressing are particularly crucial to quality consultation.
These pockets are used mainly on tailored garments where the neatest possible appearance is required. There are three main types
Welt pocket
Flap pocket
Bound/corded pocket
Welt and flap pockets
These pockets are especially suitable in tailored jackets and coats. The strip used to fill the slashed opening in the garment is called the welt.
A welt pocket looks very much like the flap found on same pockets. The major distinction between the two is that a flap hangs free and in a downward direction. A welt stands up and securely attached along each side. With the exception of one step, they are constructed in the same way.
Procedure:
Prepare the welt or flap section
Pin the welt or flap section to the right side of the garment by placing the welt or flap seam line over the marked pocket stitching line.
Pin the welt over the lower marked pocket stitching line.
Stitch the flap over the upper marked pocket stitching line.
Stitch the welt or flap over the marked pocket stitching line and the ends may be top stitched.
Bound or Corded Pockets:
In which both edges of the pocket slash are finished with a narrow piping. This type of pocket is suitable for trousers.
This kind of tailored pocket, which is not unlike a regular slit, or welt, pocket, derives its name from the fact that the edges of the opening are bound, usually with braid. When garments trimmed with braid are in vogue, this style of tailored pocket is in great demand, but, of course, is used on garments that are not so trimmed.
For binding the pocket edges, braid that is ¾ inch wide is usually satisfactory, although for broadcloth suits or suits of fine, firm material, narrower braid of fine weave is sometimes employed.
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