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Every category of sewing machine produce a specific type of stitch formation depending on the number of needles, loopers and threads which combine to construct the stitch. Each of these configurations is known as a stitch type and they are classified according to their main characteristics. The six main classes are identified by the first of the three digits:
Class 100: chain type stitches
Class 200 : hand formed stitches
Class 300 : lock stitches
Class 400 : locked chain stitches
Class 500 : over-edging stitches
Class 600 : flat seam or covering stitches
Class 700 : single thread lock stitch
The applications of some of the sub-classes are:
Sub class 101: This is used for basting the sewn-out edges of garments or components
Sub class 301: This is the most widely used of all stitch types and is the stitch produced by a regular sewing machine.
Sub class 401: This is a locked chain stitch which is used for many types of seaming operations where seam extensibility is important such as knitted fabrics.
Sub class 503: A two thread over lock stitch which is sometimes used as a cheaper alternative to the regular three thread over lock stitch.
Sub class 514: Constructed from 4 threads, this stitch formation is used to join and neaten seams where there is no necessity to press open the seam.
Sub class 515: This stitch known as a safety stitch, combines sub class 401, two thread locked chain stitch with sub-class 504, which is the regular three thread over lock stitch. The sewing action is two over lock and join the plies simultaneously. The seam is them pressed or top stitched to one side.
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