Is a term used to describe supporting fabrics much lighter in weight or with less body than typical interfacing fabrics. Because of the subordinate nature of underlining fabric, it is intended to add some additional weight and body to the entire garment, control stretch somewhat, and prevent wrinkling without changing the fabric characteristics. If the term under tuning appears in the yardage chart, yardage amounts will be comparable to the yardage required for the entire garment, and construction methods will be involved with combing two layers of fabric to act as one in entire sections of the garment.
Typical underlining fabrics are not necessarily attractive fabrics suitable for use as linings that will be visible, although they are smooth and pleasant to the touch so that they do not irritate the skin when used in underlined garments. However, some lining fabrics are appropriate for use as underlinings, in which case the under tuning plays a dual role by serving any or all the purposes of an underlining and the aesthetic purposes of a lining as well. The garment may be entirely underlined in case of sheer and translucent fabric.
Available underlining fabrics:
SiBonne, Super Siri, Touche and Undercurrent:
These are the trade names of special underlining fabrics currently on the market. All are available in at least two weights: one soft and more pliable and the other firm and crisp. They are offered in a full range of fashion colours as well as black and white. All have a smooth surface with a suitable sheen, which makes them comfortable next to the skin and visually attractive.
Cotton lawn, voile, organdy and silk organza
These all are available in fashion colours, are dress fabrics which can serve as underlinings. Lawn and Voile are very similar to the soft types of special under tuning fabrics and organdy is comparable to the crisp types. These fabrics will wrinkle when washed unless they have been treated with an easy care finish.
Nylon net
This is available in fashion colours, will retain its crispness through washing and dry cleaning. This fabric must be pressed with a low setting but excellent for underlining lace and other light weight fabrics with open work designs.
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