APPAREL MANUFACTURING - I 3(1+2)

Lesson 12 : Supporting Materials

Interlining

Interlining is a special type of underlying fabric whose main purpose is to insulate a garment, usually a coat or jacket, so that it will keep the wearer warm. To do this, an interlining must have some insulating property built into it, as a napped fabric has.

Interlinings should be lightweight but not thick, they should not add undue bulk or dimension to a garment. The most familiar interlining choices are flannel, flannelette and brushed cotton. There are the fabrics sold and handled as linings that also work as interlinings. Examples are quilted, insulated and fleece backed linings.

An interlining’s care requirements should match those of the rest of the garment, although interlined garments are best dry cleaned. Choose a colour that will not show through to the outside of a garment.

When you plan to interline, make sure that there is adequate wearing ease to accommodate the added thickness; keep this ease in mind while fitting the garment. Because of the ease problem, sleeves are not usually interlined; they can be if ease is sufficient., use the lining pattern pieces to cut out the interlining.

There are two methods of interlining.

Apply the interlining to the lining, in a way similar to the underlining method, then apply lining to a garment. Apply each section of the interlining to corresponding section of lining fabric. Interlining is trimmed away at the hemline. Sew lining unit together as though the two fabrics are one. Machine tack through both fabrics just inside neck and friont seam lines. Trim interlining close to all seamlines.

• Apply interlining to garment and then line the garment.

Stitch the interlining sections together, lapping seams and darts. Trim away the interlining along the lower edge to a depth that is equal to twice the width of the garment’s hem. Trim away the neck and front seam allowances.

Pin and match the interlining unit to the wrong side of the garment, lapping the neck and front edges over the right side of the facing. Tack unit to garment inside armhole seamlines, trim, diagonal-tack to garment side seam allowances. Herringbone stitch neck and front edges to facing.