- Standard method: In this method lining sections are basted (tacked) to sections of the garment and both the sections are handled as one during construction i.e., the constructional details like grain, fold, seam allowance etc are same for underlinings too. The fabric will usually be a typical underlining fabric but it can be a lining fabric to serve aesthetic as well as functional purposes and it can be a heavier supporting fabric. The garment sections or areas which are interfaced like collar, cuffs, belts etc do not require underlining. The lining material is to be smoother to touch and more decorative, closely woven than the typical underlining fabrics.
- Couturier or shell method: This is one in which the lining is seamed and handled separately from the garment. This is the method used for jackets and coats, but is rarely pictured on the instruction sheet for dresses, skirts and pants. The lining is equal to the size of pattern piece both lengthwise and widthwise i.e., there shall be a hem allowance in the lining (length) as well the garment and the lining can be lengthened if desired.
Advantages and Disadvantages of the Standard method
- Advantages
- In this method, the lining serves the purpose of an underlining, preventing stretch and adding body to the fabric more effectively than the other method.
- The work of stitching the lining is greatly simplified and faster because the lining and garment sections are handled as one throughout the construction sequence.
- Seams are basted, fitted, stitched and pressed as one.
- The garment can be easily altered and hemmed, hem lengths can be changed with minimum efforts.
- Therefore, this method is used almost exclusively for dresses, skirts, pants and shorts at all price levels on the ready to wear market.
- Disadvantages
- The inside of the garment does not look as finished or as elegant as is possible with couturier or shell method because the raw seams are exposed.
- If neat finish is required then the seams need to be finished with additional bulk.
- Seams composed of 4 layers eg: Waistline seam, side seam, sleeves (under arm seam) shoulder etc, usually become bulky and cannot be pressed as flat as standard seams.
- On pressing the creases formed will not be permanent.
- When stitched through four layers, seams will be conspicuous.
- In case of fabrics which tend to ravel, (synthetic or filamentous) needs a special edge finish like binding, would result into stiffening of the edge.
- Both the garment and lining material need to be pre-shrunk. If not after effects on laundering leads into disastrous conditions.
Advantages and Disadvantages of the couturier or shell method
- Advantages
- It’s elegance, is the greatest advantage of this method.
- Lining is invisible because the length of the lining is equal to the length of the garment.
- Seams are hidden and protected from friction.
- The seams of garment and lining are separate.
- The lower edge/ or flare of the lining can be attached to the garment or allowed to hang freely.
- In some fabrics mere pinking, zigzagging or over casting hem edge is an adequate finish.
- Disadvantages
- It requires more time for stitching, hand work, fitting and pressing i.e., it may almost double the time required to make the garment.
- Alterations and changes in length are time consuming and difficult to execute.
- Pressing at home is bit difficult.
- Greater disadvantage is its elaborate method and difficult mode of stitching.
- The order of construction need to be examined carefully.
- The person who undertakes this method must be able to apply basic directions to new and ever changing circumferences.
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