FUNDAMENTALS OF CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION 3(1+2)

Lesson 8 : Seams

Special or decorative seams

1. Lapped seam
   This seam is commonly used for joining a gathered or unaltered section to a straight edge as in a yoke. The lapped seam resembles a top-stitched plain seam from the right side. This seam may be referred to as a “tucked” or “decorative lapped” seam. It is especially useful for attaching plain material to a gathered section and joining the sections - interfacing and interlining.

2. Slot and Channel Seam
   Slot seam is a decorative seam, used as a fashion seam in skirts, blouses, suits, coats and children's clothes, made of firm fabrics that give crisp edges. It resembles an inverted pleat if used on centre front and centre back in skirts.

   Cut edges of the fabric are folded 0.5 cm inside and are placed closely on a fabric strip of the same type and grain. Edges are stitched close to the folded edge on the strip. Later the inside edges are neatened.

   Channel seam is a variation of a slot seam where folded edges are placed onto a separate strip and stitched at a distance of 0.5 cm from the folded edge on either side. For giving a decorative touch, the strip of fabric can be of contrasting colour and design.

3. Corded or Piped Seam
   

   This seam is used as a decorative finish for cushions, bed covers, etc. The choice of the cord depends on the weight of the fabric: A fine cord for cotton and light linen fabrics A heavier cord for thick fabrics.

A cord of seam length is taken and covered with a bias strip. Stitching is done close to the cord. This can be placed between two layers of fabric, with right sides of fabric together keeping the four seam allowances of fabric together and stitched as close to the cord as possible, using a presser foot meant for the purpose .To add decorative touch, contrast coloured material can be used for bias. For very bulky fabrics, stitch the covered cord to one layer of fabric only, then keep the two layers of fabric right side together and stitch. This stiffens the seam and gives added decorative touch in slip covers, for outlining yoke lines and at waistlines of children's dresses.