FUNDAMENTALS OF CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION 3(1+2)

Lesson 10 : Neckline Finishes

Binding

A binding is made from a bias strip that covers the raw edge and is visible on both the right and wrong side of the garment. Apart from strengthening, a binding also decorates the raw edge. It is used as a finish around neck and sleeves when there are no collars or cuffs to be attached. It can also used to finish sections of the garment such as collars, cuffs and hems.

Width of binding: It is determined by the texture of the fabric. On transparent materials, the width should not exceed 1/8th inch. For firm fabrics a 1” wide piece can be used.

Method of applying binding: Thechoice of binding depends on the following factors

1. Width
2. Fabric: Single bias is suitable for firm fabrics while double bias for sheer fabrics.
3. Shape of the edge: Curved edges can be finished with bias and fitted facings.

Bindings can be of two types:

1. Single bias binding
2. Double bias binding or French bias

Single binding is cut 3/4th inch wide and is used on heavier material. After it is stitched to the edge, the other raw edge of the bias strip is finished with hemming. The double binding is cut 1 inch wide. Double binding is easier to apply than single. While attaching to a deeply curved edge the bias strip can be slightly stretched and applied for a neat finish.