APPAREL MANUFACTURING - I 3(1+2)

Lesson 6 : Pattern Designing

Principle of added Fullness

Fullness can be provided in a garment with the help of gathers, pleats, flare and tucks etc. to increase the fullness in a garment to the amount greater than provided by dart excess, the length and/or width in a pattern frame is increased.

To add fullness working pattern is increased in three ways:

1. Equal fullness: pattern is spread equally to both opposite sides to increase amount equally on top and bottom. (Figure 11 a)
2. One-sided fullness: pattern is spread to the desired amount at one side only. One side remained unspread. This creates an arc shape at top and bottom. (Figure 11 b)
3. Unequal fullness: one side pattern is spread more than other side. This also creates an arc shape on both the sides. (Figure 11 c)

Method of adding fullness to the garment

1. Pattern is traced on a paper large enough to spread slash lines. Mark grain line as in original pattern.
2. Mark the pattern with series of slash lines in the direction of fullness as appear in the design.
3. Slash line can be drawn horizontally, vertically or at angle as appear in the design. Beginning and end of the slash line depend upon the fullness position in the design.
4. Dart excess is absorbed in added fullness.
5. Cut through slash lines and spread pattern in direction of fullness.
6. Trace the outer shape of the new pattern and mark grain line.
7. Cut on muslin and test for fit.