Fundamentals of Clothing Construction

FUNDAMENTALS OF CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION 3(1+2)

Lesson 9 : Fullness

General rules for stitching a dart

1. Darts to be stitched from wide to narrow, tacking care to have the last two or three stitches on the edge of the fold.
2. The wider the dart base, the more fullness it will provide to the body curve. For example, a large bust will require a wider dart base.
3. Darts should be straight and merge into the fabric (slide down the hill, not jump off the cliff).
4. For a neat finish in sheers; double stitch darts, trim, and overcast or bind the edge.
5. Threads at the point of the dart must be secured either by backstitch, tying a knot, lockstitch, or by reinforcing. For example, do not use the backstitch or lockstitch on sheer or lightweight fabrics since it builds up thread and is bulky. It can also damage the fabric.
6. Darts are to be slashed open ONLY when the fabric is bulky. Stop the slash about ½ to 1 inch from the dart point.