PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN AND APPLICATION

Lesson 11: Methods of Producing Designs on Textiles: Finishing, Embroidery & Applique Work

Chemical finishes

1. Localized parchmentizing: The acid treatment of cotton fabric causes it to become stiff and more transparent. The design areas of the fabric are coated or printed with acid resistant materials. When the acid finish is applied it produces an opaque design in contrast sharply with the transparent background. This process is known as localized parchmentizing and the effect is known as frosted design.
   
   
2. Plisse designs: A puckered or plisse effect is achieved in some fabrics by imprinting them with chemicals that cause the fabric to shrink (Fig.11.3). Plisse fabrics should not be ironed because the pressing of the plisse flatten the surface. Cotton and rayon react in this way when treated with sodium hydroxide, an alkali. Phenol an acid substance is used for nylon to achieve plisse designs.
   
   

   
   

   
   
3. Burnt-out or etched designs: Burnt-out designs may be produced by several different chemical processes. Acids or ketons may be used as well as aromatic alcohols such as phenols. The process in creating burnt-out designs is to select a fabric composed of two different fibres with different reactions to chemicals. A typical fabric used for acid burnt-out patterns is made with such fibres as rayon or acetate, which will be removed by the acid and wool, acrylic or polyester which will be resistant to action by the acid. The fabric is exposed to the acid, which burns away or dissolves those fibres subject to acid damage. The non affected fibres remain, resulting in a fabric with pattern of sheer and opaque areas. Acetone is used on fabrics composed of acetate and a second fibre not affected by the acetone. The acetate is destroyed in the treated areas, leaving the second fibre with an interesting design. Phenol is effective on fabric made partly of nylon; the phenol will remove the nylon fibres, leaving the other fibres intact (Fig.11.4).