Lesson 9: Effects of Yarn, Weave, Colour and Finishes on Textiles
Twill Weave and variations
Twills are generally characterized by a series of more or less pronounced diagonal wale or ridges and furrows with either warp or weft preponderating, or in equal quantities on the face of the fabric. The twill line may run on the cloth either sinisterly (right to left) or dextrally (left to right).
The twill may be grouped
According to the direction of wale: Right hand twill and Left hand twill
According to interlacement order: Uneven twill (warp-faced and weft-faced) and even twill (Fig. 10.22).
According to draft plan: Continuous twill, zigzag or wavy twill, rearranged twill corkscrew twill, diamond twill, combined twill, broken twill, figured twill etc (Fig.10.23).
Role of yarns and twill weave in creating designs
Combination of two colours one for warp and other for weft produce variegated effect.
Employing warp and weft yarns of differential count produces novelty effect.
Drawing warp yarns from two beams of differential tensions shall produce complex texture, an admixture of seersucker on twill base.
Variations in twill effect, angle of wale, changing the draft order produce interesting structural designs.
A continuous diagonal would interfere with the luster and smoothness.
Participants