PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN AND APPLICATION

Lesson 9: Effects of Yarn, Weave, Colour and Finishes on Textiles

Effect of finishes on the textiles

Finishes imparting luster

• Beetling finishing process increases the luster of fabrics by flattening the yarns to provide more area for light reflection.
• Cire fabrics are characterized by a high surface polish that imparts luster of the fabric. A fashion term “the wet look” has sometimes been used to describe cire fabrics.
• The treatment of cotton with a strong solution of caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) altered the strength, absorbency and appearance of fabric. In order to impart luster, strength and improve dye uptake to cotton fabrics or yarns they are mercerized either in gray state or after bleaching.
• Decating may be applied to rayon and other man made and synthetic fabrics to improve the hand, colour and luster of the fabric, or to overcome uneven or blotchy dyeing.
• Calendering flattens the fabric, removing inequality of surface. It imparts smoothness and luster, but not permanently.
• Through schreinerizing process, reflection of light from the impression of the diagonal ridges gives the fabric a luster.

Finishes imparting design

• Embossed designs are produced by pressing a pattern onto fabrics like other calendered finishes, they may be permanent when applied to thermoplastic fibres, durable when applied to fabrics that have been resin treated and temporary on other fabrics.
• Embossing became a much more important finish after the heat sensitive fibres were developed because it was possible to produce a durable, washable, and embossed pattern.
• If some section of the pile or nap are flattened with engraved rollers and other areas are sheared, a sculptured effect can be achieved.

Finishes imparting texture

• A surface effect that is similar to pile may be created by flocking, in which short fibres are glued onto the surface of fabrics by an adhesive material.
• Napping finish is a method in which ground fibres are raised to the surface with mechanical brushing which gives textured effect and softness to the fabric.
• Shearing process is used to control the length of the pile and napped fabric to create a smooth surface.
• Schreinerizing finish is suitable for lingerie fabrics and linings and sateens, as the slightly rough surface produced by diagonal ridges reduces the tendency of fabrics to cling.