PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN AND APPLICATION

Lesson 9: Effects of Yarn, Weave, Colour and Finishes on Textiles

Fancy Weaves

Woven figures are created by modifying the interlacement pattern in the design from that of the ground. The number of harness in the loom designates the complexity of interlacement order, where each harness raises the ends selectively. But there is a limit to use certain number of harness effectively. The simple plain loom can accommodate 8 to 10 harness for basic weaves. For the production of fancy weaves, special looms or special attachments to a simple loom are necessary.

1. Dobby
   
   
2. Jacquard Figures
   
   
3. Extra warp figures
   
   
4. Extra weft figures
   
   
5. Tapestry designs
   
   
6. Swivel weaving: This is an extra weft figuring, where small shuttles are used to produce tiny extra weft patterns independently. Each shuttle (swivel) carries a tiny bobbin filled with weft, works independently and the patterns are produced across the width of the cloth. A separate jacquard shed is formed separately to interweave the swivel designs, the technique similar to Jamdanibutta to another on the reverse side of the fabric makes the fabric more susceptible for puckering, crumple, pulling and dragging. But swivel patterns are more secured than extra weft patterns.
   patterns of West Bengal. In other words weaving swivel patterns to a great extent is much different from producing extra weft figures; where in the latter has an extra shuttle to carry extra weft that moves from one selvedge to another but in the former, number of small shuttles with self-regulating bobbins weave independent motifs and the yarn movement is limited to each motif alone. The extra weft yarn floating from one
   
7. Lappet weaving: It is one of the fancy weave where the decoration is made on the ground fabric. Lappet design is an extra warp thread which is controlled by a needle bar that moves sideways. It appears like embroidery. However, it is possible to use single colour as extra warp. The floating threads on reverse side of the fabric are cut when the fabric is completed. The thread moves in zigzag manner, parallel to selvedge that is managed with the help of dobby mechanism. This yarn can be pulled out easily without disturbing the ground weave.