PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN AND APPLICATION

Lesson 9: Effects of Yarn, Weave, Colour and Finishes on Textiles

Basic Weaves

Basic weaves are produced on simple loom by using 2 sets of yarns i.e. warp and weft and 2-5 harness, classified as plain, twill and satin according to the interlacement order.

Plain Weave and variations

• The ‘plain’, ‘calico’ or ‘tabby’ is the simplest weave (Fig.10.15).
• Elementary combination of warp and weft which interlace alternatively going over and under.
• The appearance of the plain weave may be varied by differences in the closeness of the weave, by different thickness of yarn, or by the use of contrasting colours in warp and filling.
• When fine yarns in both warp and weft are employed it produces transparent sheer fabric. For example exquisite hand woven cotton fabrics of 1200s were historically famous as ‘woven air’, ‘running water’, ‘evening dew’, depicting the sheerness and transparency.
  
  

  
  

Variations of plain weave

Twill Weave and variations

Satin weave and variations