FUNDAMENTALS OF CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION 3(1+2)

Lesson 9 : Fullness

Godets

These are wedge shaped pieces which are usually set into the hem of a garment so that the wide side of the wedge becomes a part of the hem adding fullness to the edge of a skirt /kurta. Godet may be set into a seam of the skirt, or the skirt may be slashed so that the slashed edges form the seams that join into the godet. Panels are cut and godets are stitched between panels. Setting in a godet presents two problems:

1. stitching perfect point at the end of the slash and
2. adjusting the bias edges of the godet to the straight edge of the slash.

Since the seam allowance at the end of the slash can be very little or only a few threads of fabric reinforce the point by stitching around it. To prevent the point of a godet from spreading, it is very important to place a stay of self-fabric or sheer material, such as net, behind it. Extend the stay several inches down from the point. Ribbon tapes are also used for holding in feared sections. Attached to either sides of the flare, they may be tied or locked together and then released when the garment is pressed.