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Strain: Strain is characterized by slight folds that begin and end within the garments outline, such as those created by pulling fabric taut from two opposite ends. Strain results from using insufficient fabric for the dimensions of the form or figure, thereby restricting movement or stretching the fabric beyond its normal limits.
Tightness: is characterized by a garment that fits too closely to the figure. Tightness results from using insufficient fabric in one part of the garment, or in the whole garment. Tightness can but does not always cause strain folds to appear. This means that more ease is required in the garment.
Looseness: is characterized by a garment that fits too loosely around the figure, causing the shoulder lines of the garment to droop over the shoulder tip of the form or figure, or by excessive looseness around the bust, waist, and / or hips.
Gapping: is characterized by misplaced excess around the neckline and / or armhole causing looseness. Gapping can be identified by its cone-like shape, with the widest part of the cone at the outline of the garment, and the end in direction of the bust or shoulder blade mound. Gapping occurs when the shoulder and / or side seams are out of alignment. It can also be caused by fabric that has stretched along cut line.
A Good Fit A garment that fits well will hang from the shoulder to the hemline without the appearance of strain, tightness, gaping, or looseness. The sleeve will be in perfect alignment with the arm. The garment will appear neither too short nor too long from neckline to waistline and from waistline to hemline. It will appear neither too tight nor too loose for comfort. The hemline and horizontal balance lines will be parallel with the floor. The centre lines of the garment will be in perfect alignment with the figure regardless of body symmetry, proportions and stance. That is, the figure need not be perfectly symmetrical, the proportions and stance may be less than ideal, but the garment will still align properly when well fit.
A Poor Fit
A garment with a poor fit is caused by the curves of the body displacing the natural hang of the garment. Fitting problems occur when the pattern shapes do not conform to the body’s dimensions, symmetry or stance. These conditions are identifiable by any one of the following conditions:
- The centreline of the garment is out of alignment with the figure.
- When the garment is on the figure, the hemline and horizontal balance lines are not parallel with the floor.
- The garment is too long or too short from neck to waist and / or from waist to hem.
- The sleeve is out of alignment with the arm, causing strain , and / or puckering appears along the cap.
- Strain lines, tightness, gapping or looseness appears in the garment.
A poor fit is usually caused by one of the following reasons:
- Careless work habits.
- Not following instructions accurately.
- Using incorrect measurements
- Making the wrong adjustments for figure type
- Poor sewing or cutting
- Using steam on muslin causes the garment to shrink.
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