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The goal of any pattern alteration is to make the pattern fit better, but before you alter, you must decide what you mean by good fit. In making this judgement, there are four main factors to consider: appearance, comfort, design and fabric.
For a good appearance, all darts and seams must fall in the proper places, as shown below. The garment should have a smooth look, with no pulls or wrinkles, no sagging or baggy areas.
Comfort, is extremely important. The most attractive garment in your wardrobe will never be worn unless it feels good when you wear it. Some garments though less comfortable than others are still worn, as people tend to make more notice of current fashion trends than of the practical aspects of clothing; but it is common sense to make sure that you can sit, bend, walk and reach in any garment without straining its seams or feeling restricted.
The design of a garment may be based on either a close fit or a loose fit. It is important to bear in mind the look the designer was aiming for when you fit individual garments. The photographs and illustrations in the pattern catalogue and on the pattern envelop you choose can be valuable guides.
In addition, certain features of a garment indicate close fit: a silhouette that defines the form and, within it, such details as a waist seam; darts and curved seams; shaped inserts, and occasionally bias cut sections.
A loose fit is often signalled by such design devices as a silhouette that camouflages the details of the figure beneath; within the silhouette, fullness controlled softly by gathers, shirring, release tucks or unpressed pleats rather than by darts and fitted seams. Some parts of a garment may be close fitting and other parts soft and loose. The classic shirt dress, made with a gathered or pleated skirt is an example. Even on the loose fitting garments, some parts of the garment may be fitted to the body, as is the waistband on a full, gathered skirt, or the shoulder seam on a smock.
Fabric is crucial to good fit – recommendations on the pattern envelope are to be taken seriously. Styles for ‘stretch knits only’ are relying on some stretch in the fabric. Those calling for thick fabrics are usually designed a bit larger to accommodate the bulk; the same style in a thinner fabric would probably be too big.
When fabric types are interchangeable – soft or crisp, for example – remember that the style will look different according to the one used. Also note the clinging tendency of some fabrics; these define body shape even if a garment is loose fitting.
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