The figure may stand more erect than the pattern has allowed for, causing surplus length on the centre back line to form a crease. Pin the crease at the centre back, tapering to nothing at the shoulders. On the pattern, draw a line 1" (2.5cm) below the neckline and perpendicular to the centre back (diagram 1 - line A-B). Measure half the width of the crease either side of the line and join to the shoulder to form a dart.
Fold out the dart to obtain the shape in diagram 2, and correct the curves of the centre back and shoulder lines. As the centre back line is now curved, this adjustment can only be made on a garment with a centre back seam. An excessive amount of ease on the back shoulder line (more than 1/2“or 13mm) could cause surplus length on the centre back line.
A figure with square shoulders would cause the garment to be tight between the shoulder points, and this would cause the garment to lift and form a crease. See page 26 for the necessary adjustment.
It is important that this fault be diagnosed correctly a crease due to an erect figure would be loose, whereas that caused by a square-shouldered figure would be tight. The wrong adjustment would cause the defect to become more pronounced.
Participants