Twisted sleeve

APPAREL MANUFACTURING - I 3(1+2)
Lesson 15 : Fitting

Twisted sleeve

 
fgh
fgf

Both these sleeves appear to be twisting but the defects are actually caused by the front arm line being too long in relation to the back arm line. Do not confuse either of these with faults of balance, in which the folds are usually tight and confined to the sleeve head.

The first sleeve has loose folds along the front arm line which are caused by the sleeve having insufficient shaping for the elbow. Lift the sleeve on the back arm line until the folds disappear and pin a pleat. The width of the pleat is the width of elbow dart needed. If there is an existing elbow dart, widen it by that amount or make two darts. The broken line in the diagram shows the original dart.

The second sleeve has folds in the upper part of the front arm line, caused by the crown being too high at the front balance point. Lift the sleeve just below the balance point until the folds disappear and pin a pleat. Lower the front balance point by the width of the pleat, taking care not to narrow the crown more than is necessary to draw a good curve. The broken line in the diagram shows the original sleevehead.

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Last modified: Monday, 28 November 2011, 7:08 AM