APPAREL MANUFACTURING - I 3(1+2)

Lesson 15 : Fitting

Preparation of garment for fitting

1. All facings should be in position except those at hem of a jacket/sleeve.

2. Seams which are unlikely to need any adjustment such as those in a pleated or gathered skirt may be stitched. Centre front and centre back seams may also be stitched if they are on the straight centre seams as a last resort shaped centre seams must be tacked only. A zip in the straight centre back seam should be inserted before the front and back of the garment are tacked together, as it is much easier at this stage.
3. Tack all other darts and seams.
4. Tack the hem as it enables the proportion of the garment to be judged.
5. Do not attach the collar or the sleeve as the neckline and armholes must be perfectly set before these are attached.
6. Tack the waist band on to a skirt or trouser.

First fitting

1. Ensure that the garment is positioned correctly on the figure with the center lines in the center of the figure and both sides of garment on level. Pin openings together matching the seam lines.
2. Observe the general effect of the garment balance silhouette and proportion in relation to figure.
3. Check the grain line first as these control the balance and set. Other faults often disappear after the grain has been corrected and any remaining faults to be found and corrected.
4. Study the amount of ease and adjust if necessary by pinning the surplus equally on either side of side seams or by clipping the tacking stitches and letting out equally if the garment is too small. All seams must be clean i.e without any puckering caused by one side having been eased on to the other. When adjusting a ease on garment, remember that the proportion and shape are better preserved by making a small adjustment in two or more seams than by making a large adjustment in one seam whenever this is possible.
5. Dart must point exactly towards the highest point the curve for which they are intended and stop just short of it, they may need to be lengthened or shortened or moved to another part to obtain the best possible fit. A dart concealed in a seam known as panel seam must pass over the highest point of the curve or within 1 inch of it. The fabric is pliable and can be eased. Match bodice and skirt darts across the waist seam wherever possible.
6. Study the shapes of all curved edges and seams and make the necessary adjustments. Adjust darts and seams if they are unflattering as even a slight adjustment can make considerable improvements in the garment and on the figure determine the new line and then draw the new line on the pattern. Place the two sides of the garment with right sides together. Pin the pattern on and use tailors tacking to mark the new line on both in order that they will be identical.
7. Study the positions of all design details such as pockets , buttons, belts etc. Adjust the size and position if necessary.

Any adjustments should be tacked from the inside of the garment and the garment fitted again before stitching. This is known as correction fitting and not the second fitting.

Second fitting

All the main seams may be stitched unless there is any reason to doubt the fit, except the waist seam as the position of this often affected by other adjustment.

1. Check all the positions of the first fitting again observing grain, balance and amount of ease in all areas where there are shapes - curved lines. Check dress making process for accuracy of curved lines.
2. The collar should be tacked on but not the sleeves as these are pinned during fitting. The width and shape of the collar should be flattering to the shape of the face and in line with current fashion.
3. Check that the armhole fits perfectly and pin the sleeves on to fit.
4. Pin the hemline at the required level parallel to the floor.

Third fitting

A third fitting is necessary for a garment with sleeves to check the fit of sleeves after they have been tacked in.