APPAREL MANUFACTURING - I 3(1+2)

Lesson 15 : Fitting

Gaping armhole

 

This is a very unattractive defect found in sleeveless garments, and one which may be difficult to rectify after the garment has been cut out. Larger sizes are particularly prone to this defect as the addition of extra width on the side seams increases the size of the armhole.

There are three possible remedies:

1. If the armhole is only slightly too large, it would probably be sufficient to take in the shoulder and side seams. Not more than 1/2" (l3mm) may be taken from each seam and the lines would need to be slightly curved (diagram 1).

Diagram 1	Diagram 2	Diagram 3

2. The most effective solution is to make an armhole dart in the pattern and transfer it to the waist dart, but this involves re-cutting and is only possible if there are wide seam allowances on the armhole and side seam. Pin the surplus fabric into a dart on the garment. Measure the width of the dart and draw in on the pattern from the armhole to the point of the waist dart (diagram 2). Fold out the armhole dart to obtain the shape in diagram 3. The size of the waist dart will be increased but part of it may be disre­garded when making up. It is not advisable to transfer the armhole dart into the underarm dart as this may easily become too large for the figure. When cutting a sleeveless garment in any size, it is advisable to make an armhole dart in the original pattern and transfer it, as it is nearly always necessary to do so at the fitting stage.
3. If the first method is ineffective and the second impossible, the only solution is to sew a dart in the armhole of the garment. Armhole darts are always very conspicuous but less unattractive than the folds shown in the sketch.