A short back balance is indicated by one or more of the following defects: diagonal folds from the centre of the back to the underarm, the back neckline standing away and dipping at the centre; the back waistline or hemline lifting at the centre. These defects may be caused by a figure which has a rounded back or by the pattern having been cut incorrectly.
Cut across the pattern on the back width line and add ¼” – 2” (6mm – 5.0cm), according to the appearance of the garment. The amount may be estimated by measuring the amount that the waistline has lifted or the neckline dipped. The sleeve head may need to be lengthened by the same amount, or the base of the armhole may need to be raised.
A figure with a rounded back or prominent shoulder blades may also need extra width on the back width line. Add the required amount on the back shoulder line also, and make a shoulder dart.
Similar defects in the front of a garment indicate a short front balance.
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