Excessive back length

APPAREL MANUFACTURING - I 3(1+2)
Lesson 15 : Fitting

Excessive back length

 
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A very common defect in trousers is that of excessive length over the back of the thigh. A certain amount of ease is necessary in this area to allow for movement, but too much ease forms into creases and spoils the appearance of the trousers.

The fault is caused by the shaping of the pattern and is difficult to eradicate completely after the trousers have been cut out, but it may be possible to improve the fit slightly by one of the following methods.

  1. Curve the back waistline down half-way between the side seam and the centre back. 1/2" (l3mm) is the maximum amount, as the waistline must retain a smooth curve.
  2. The second method can only be used if the trousers have been made in a woolen fabric, since it is possible to stretch a woolen by using a damp cloth and an iron. Draw a pleat across the back pattern 1/4"-1/2" (6mm-13mm) wide, and 2"(5.0 cm) below the crotch line. Fold out the pleat and re-cut the back of the trousers. Stretch the side seams of the back between points A and B until they match the front side seams.
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Last modified: Monday, 28 November 2011, 9:33 AM