The garment has diagonal creases from the armhole towards the neckline, and the armhole appears loose. This is due to the size of the front armhole being greater than is needed for this figure.
The creases may also occur in the back of the garment, but for the purpose of this example it is assumed that the back fits correctly.
Stage 2
The creases may be removed by pinning a dart in the garment diagonally from the armhole to the neckline. The dart should be sufficiently wide at the armhole to remove the creases, tapering to nothing at neckline. Pin a dart each side of the garment as there is frequently a slight variation in the slope of the shoulders.
Stage 3
Remove the garment from the figure, leaving two darts pinned. Measure the distance between the shoulder seam and the dart at the neckline on the garment, and measure this distance in the same position on the pattern to find point A. measure the distance between the shoulder seam and the upper edge of the dart at the armhole, and the width of the dart pinned. Measure these amounts on the pattern and mark points B and C, as shown. Join A -B and A-C on the pattern to form a dart.
Stage 4
The dart then “folded out” by creasing the pattern along the line A – B and placing point B to point C. Correct the line of the armhole which will have become slightly uneven. This adjustment not only increases the angle of the shoulder slope, but also slightly changes the shape of the upper part of the armhole and neckline.
Participants