The term 'balance' when applied to bodices or dresses, refers to the relationship between the centre front and centre back lengths, Balance allows for the stance of the figure, and a perfectly balanced garment hangs from the shoulders with no creases or folds visible, and with the hem line an even distance from the ground. As the lengths of front and back side seams must remain the same, adjustments to the balance of a garment are made on the front and back width lines, thus raising or lowering the neck and shoulder lines. Adequate seam allowances are therefore necessary on these lines.
A long back balance is indicated by loose folds across the back above the waist, and by the grain on the back width line dipping at the centre. This may be caused by the very erect stance of a figure or by the pattern having been incorrectly cut.
Pin a pleat along the back width line on the garment until the folds disappear. Avoid making the pleat any wider than necessary as it may pull the back neckline out of shape. Draw the pleat on the pattern (diagram 1) and fold it out to obtain the shape in diagram 2. The broken lines indicate the lines of the original pattern.
Similar defects in the front of a garment indicate a long front balance.
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