APPAREL MANUFACTURING - I 3(1+2)

Lesson 15 : Fitting

Square shoulders

This figure causes creases to form between the neckline and the shoulder points. The neckline may also appear loose. The grain on the front width line is raised at each end.

	Diagram 1	Diagram 2

Clip the tacking stitches along the shoulder seam towards the neck point and let out the seam until the creases disappear. Measure the amount let out, which is usually equal on front and back.

Draw a line on the pattern 1" (2.5cm) below the shoulder line (diagram 1) and cut along this line. Raise the shoulder section the necessary amount and raise the base of the armhole by the same amount to correct the size of the armhole (diagram 2). Curve the armhole shape smoothly. Alter the back pattern in the same way.

Sometimes it is also necessary to make the shoulder line wider for this type of figure, or the crown of the sleeve deeper.